![]() The AW19 collection included a Suspiria-inspired coat featuring a full-body image of Tilda Swinton. Undercover retains its sense of humour as well. Takahashi’s bizarre imagination holds a singular perspective that centres around femininity and tailoring, as well as revolution.Ī deconstructionist, Takahashi combines distant aesthetic elements and subverts them: overturning well-worn stones to find the squirming worms beneath. It’s a stunning mix of chaos, resolution, fantasy and rebellion. Undercover is a blend of punk, goth, bondage, baroque, and grotesque aesthetics, combined into streetwear. The invitation to the show portrayed the image of a model’s bruised and wounded knee, announcing the collection theme, “Scab”. With the support of Comme des Garcons founder Rei Kawakubo, Undercover debuted at Paris Fashion Week in 2002. ![]() While still a student at Tokyo’s Bunka Fashion College, Takahashi’s store, NOWHERE, collaborated with designers such as Hiroshi Fujiwara of Fragment Design and Anarchy Forever Forever Anarchy. ![]() The brand began in Tokyo’s famed fashion district, Harajuku, and soon became an integral part of the hidden streetwear scene. Takahashi started out singing in tribute band, Tokyo Sex Pistols, and took his love of Vivienne Westwood to remarkable new heights, launching Undercover in 1990. “We make noise, not clothes” is the motto of Jun Takahashi’s Undercover, a label that has become one of the most influential on the planet. Through that experience, they can discover or reaffirm the attraction and the delight of UNDERCOVER.If you’ve been living under a rock, maybe you’ve missed the rise of Undercover: Japanese designer Jun Takahashi’s ground-breaking fashion brand that blends punk rebellion with functional streetwear. Visitors have the sense of walking through a labyrinth with a complex intermingling of creations and stories that are part of UNDERCOVER’s chaotic but rich world. In fact, “LABYRINTH OF UNDERCOVER” also describes the exhibition venue. This exhibition takes advantage of Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery’s expansive exhibition space to plot a winding path through a series of presentations that explore the brand’s diverse creative aspects, such as fashion, video, dolls, and paintings. The title, LABYRINTH OF UNDERCOVER: 25 Year Retrospective, is derived from the manner in which the labyrinthine intermingling of many facets of creation produces a distinctive world that is a feature of the brand. This exhibition celebrates UNDERCOVER’s twenty-fifth anniversary, and is the brand’s first exhibition in an art museum. Every facet of the world of UNDERCOVER, including fashion, photography, film, and paintings, creates new value through a completely harmonious merger of culture and fashion that is a mark of the brand. UNDERCOVER’s creation has branched in many directions-such as the richly storied photographic works featuring the doll GRACE, and the brand’s own new hero character UNDERMAN-but each incorporates the same coherent aesthetic. Each collection show is staged with its own conceptual presentation to express the unique perspective behind the designs. Condensing a quarter century of ceaseless, full tilt evolution into a single show, this is an exhibition that will delight fans and enthral newcomers.įashion, or making clothes, is only a part of UNDERCOVER’s creation. This exhibition looks back at UNDERCOVER’s first twenty-five years, presenting a broad variety of items, including a hundred or so pieces from the brand’s collection archives, ranging from the first to the latest collection. UNDERCOVER’s 2003 SS collection marked its Paris debut, and it has shown in Paris ever since, following a trajectory that made it the global brand we know today. His distinctive designs channelled the spirit of the Tokyo streets and rapidly gained a passionate fan base, generating a vibe that made UNDERCOVER the leading brand of the Urahara movement in the back alleys of Harajuku. Takahashi Jun launched UNDERCOVER in 1990 when he was still studying apparel design at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo. Exhibition UNDERCOVER 25 Year Retrospective
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